Build Your Own Simple Shed From Scratch

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A few key tools, $1500 in materials, and three days' worth of sweat equity turned what could have been a pedestrian building project into a sturdy?and stylish?8 x 6?foot shed.

By David Agrell

Simple Shed Plans (PDF, 1.1MB, requires Adobe Reader)

\nPrepare the surface by tamping down the area where the concrete deck blocks will go. You can make your own hand tamper by nailing a 12-inch piece of 2 x 6 to the end of 4 x 4 post.\n

\nPosition deck blocks to create a layout measuring roughly 6 x 8 feet. Ensure that the blocks are seated level on the ground. Verify that the layout is square by checking that the diagonals measure 10 feet.", credit: "", sourceid: null, sourcename: "", sourceurl: null, sourcelogo: "", thumbsrc: "/cm/popularmechanics/images/Em/simple-shed-01-0213-smn.jpg", src: "/cm/popularmechanics/images/uH/simple-shed-01-0213-lgn.jpg", srcwidth: 450, srcheight: 600 }, { id: "slide2", url: "build-your-own-simple-shed-from-scratch-2", slidetype: "image", title: "Assemble Band Joists", description: "Parts and Tools: four 4 x 4 floor posts, 2 x 6 band joists, deck screws, 5/16-inch lag bolts and washers; 4-foot level, drill-driver\n

\nCut pressure-treated 4 x 4 lumber into 12-inch-long pieces. Insert a piece vertically into each corner concrete block.\n

\nCut a piece of pressure-treated 2 x 6 lumber to 67-3/4 inches. Place it on the short side of the shed layout where the terrain is at its highest elevation. Using deck screws, temporarily attach the board level to the 4 x 4 posts, ensuring that its ends are flush with the outside edges of the posts.\n

\nCut a piece of pressure-treated 2 x 6 lumber to 92 inches and place it on a long side. Position its end flush with the 2 x 6 just installed, and temporarily attach it level to the posts. Continue assembling the perimeter of the frame in this manner. Once complete, the frame\'s outside dimensions should measure 92 x 70-3/4 inches. Make sure the frame is square by verifying that the diagonals measure 116 inches. \n

\nOnce you\'re happy that the entire frame is level and square, use 5/16 x 3-inch lag bolts and washers to fasten the 2 x 6 pieces to the 4 x 4 posts. Use two bolts per post, and countersink them so their heads sit beneath the surface of the band joists.", credit: "", sourceid: null, sourcename: "", sourceurl: null, sourcelogo: "", thumbsrc: "/cm/popularmechanics/images/WY/simple-shed-02-0213-smn.jpg", src: "/cm/popularmechanics/images/xi/simple-shed-02-0213-lgn.jpg", srcwidth: 600, srcheight: 450 }, { id: "slide3", url: "build-your-own-simple-shed-from-scratch-3", slidetype: "image", title: "Complete Floor Assembly", description: "Parts and Tools: two concrete deck blocks, two 4 x 4 floor posts, 2 x 6 floor joists, 3/4-inch plywood sheathing, 2-1/2 inch decking screws; reciprocating saw, circular saw\n

\nCut three floor joists to 67-3/4 inches, and install them, along with the remaining deck blocks and 4 x 4 posts.\n

\nUse a reciprocating saw to trim the tops of the 4 x 4s flush with top of the frame. Then, attach the 3/4-inch plywood floor deck with 2-1/2-inch decking screws placed 12 inches apart. Use a circular saw to trim the plywood to size.", credit: "Reed Young", sourceid: null, sourcename: "", sourceurl: null, sourcelogo: "", thumbsrc: "/cm/popularmechanics/images/gW/simple-shed-03-0213-smn.jpg", src: "/cm/popularmechanics/images/zk/simple-shed-03-0213-lgn.jpg", srcwidth: 600, srcheight: 450 }, { id: "slide4", url: "build-your-own-simple-shed-from-scratch-4", slidetype: "image", title: "Frame Walls", description: "Parts and Tools: 2 x 4 framing members, 16d (3-1/2 inch) hot-dipped galvanized nails; circular saw, framing hammer\n

\nBefore framing each wall, cut all the 2 x 4 lumber to size so that you have a stack of parts from which to work. Cut all the vertical members (the studs) to 88 inches.\n

\nBeginning with the side wall without the window, cut two 2 x 4s at 92 inches; these will be the top and bottom plates. Lay them next to each other, and on both pieces mark the stud locations on 24-inch centers. This layout ensures that the seams of the siding will fall directly over a stud. The center of the first stud will be 24 inches from the start of the board. The center of the next stud will be 24 inches from the center of the previous stud, and so on. You\'ll be left with a remainder measurement to the end of the board. \n

\nFasten all members using 16d hot-dipped galvanized nails. The outside dimensions of the completed wall should measure 92 inches wide by 91 inches tall. \n

\nBuild the opposite side wall in much the same way, but omit the center stud to allow for the window rough-opening (RO) assembly. The RO measures 32 inches wide by 38 inches tall and is positioned 7 inches from the top of the top plate. \n

\nThe outside dimensions of the framed gable-end walls are 63-3/4 inches wide by 91 inches tall. On one wall, frame a door RO that measures 36 inches wide by 84 inches tall. Be sure to position the studs so the seams of the siding fall directly over a stud. The siding will extend past either side of the wall by 4 inches; position the first stud so that its center is 20 inches from the end of the board. The center of the next stud should be 44 inches from the end of the board.\n", credit: "Reed Young", sourceid: null, sourcename: "", sourceurl: null, sourcelogo: "", thumbsrc: "/cm/popularmechanics/images/NS/simple-shed-04-0213-smn.jpg", src: "/cm/popularmechanics/images/NY/simple-shed-04-0213-lgn.jpg", srcwidth: 450, srcheight: 600 }, { id: "slide5", url: "build-your-own-simple-shed-from-scratch-5", slidetype: "image", title: "Install Window", description: "Parts and Tools: single-hung sash window, 8d (2-1/2 inch) hot-dipped galvanized nails; hammer\n

\nCenter the window in the rough opening, and nail through its flange and into the 2 x 4 framing. You\'ll caulk around the window before installing the siding.", credit: "Reed Young", sourceid: null, sourcename: "", sourceurl: null, sourcelogo: "", thumbsrc: "/cm/popularmechanics/images/8Q/simple-shed-05-0213-smn.jpg", src: "/cm/popularmechanics/images/is/simple-shed-05-0213-lgn.jpg", srcwidth: 450, srcheight: 600 }, { id: "slide6", url: "build-your-own-simple-shed-from-scratch-6", slidetype: "image", title: "Install Siding", description: "Parts and Tools: T1-11 siding, 8d hot-dipped galvanized nails, exterior-grade caulk; circular saw, hammer\n

\nInstall the siding so that it\'s flush with the top plate but extends 5 inches past the bottom plate. This overhang will drain rainwater off the wall and onto the ground rather than allowing it to seep into the shed. Attach the siding with 8d nails positioned every 8 inches.\n

\nCut the siding to fit around the window. Note: Before installing the siding, caulk around the entire window flange using an exterior-grade, silicone-based product. \n

\nOn the gable-end walls only, extend the siding past each side by 4 inches to create a flange that will overlap the framing of the side walls. Cut out the door opening, and retain the piece for building the door later.", credit: "Reed Young", sourceid: null, sourcename: "", sourceurl: null, sourcelogo: "", thumbsrc: "/cm/popularmechanics/images/Bp/simple-shed-06-0213-smn.jpg", src: "/cm/popularmechanics/images/rW/simple-shed-06-0213-lgn.jpg", srcwidth: 450, srcheight: 600 }, { id: "slide7", url: "build-your-own-simple-shed-from-scratch-7", slidetype: "image", title: "Build Parts for Roof Rrusses", description: "Parts and Tools: 2 x 4 truss members; rafter square, circular saw\n

\nThe roof has a slope of 7:12, which means it rises 7 inches for every 12 inches of horizontal measurement. You\'ll build five truss assemblies, each consisting of three major members: two rafters and one ceiling joist.\n

\nTo create a pair of rafters, first use a rafter square to mark a plumb cut in the middle of a 2 x 4. Do this by pivoting the right-angle point of the square (usually marked \"pivot\") until the No. 7 notch on the Common Top Cut table lines up with the edge of the board. Mark the board along the right-angle edge of the square (not the hypotenuse edge). Cut along the line with a circular saw. Finally, trim each rafter so its long side measures 47-1/4 inches. \n

\nUse a rafter square to mark seat cuts on both ends of each ceiling joist. Hold the square with its fence against the edge of the board. Mark on the board at the No. 7 notch on the Common Top Cut table. Then pivot the square until its edge is at the mark. Scribe a line along that edge and cut it with a circular saw. Repeat at the other end, ensuring that the long side measures 72 inches.\n

\nMark the truss layout on the floor deck. The bottom edge of the ceiling joist measures 72 inches. Measure up 21 inches from its halfway point; this is where the bottom edges of the two rafters meet at the roof\'s ridge.", credit: "Reed Young", sourceid: null, sourcename: "", sourceurl: null, sourcelogo: "", thumbsrc: "/cm/popularmechanics/images/J1/simple-shed-07-0213-smn.jpg", src: "/cm/popularmechanics/images/Cz/simple-shed-07-0213-lgn.jpg", srcwidth: 450, srcheight: 600 }, { id: "slide8", url: "build-your-own-simple-shed-from-scratch-8", slidetype: "image", title: "Assemble Roof Trusses", description: "Parts and Tools: completed truss members, plywood scraps for gussets and template, 1-1/4-inch roofing nails, construction adhesive, T1-11 siding; hammer\n

\nAssemble your first truss on the layout. Nail plywood scrap along the edges of the truss members, as seen here. This will create a template that will aid in aligning the pieces. Secure gussets made of plywood scraps using construction adhesive and 1-1/4-inch roofing nails placed 4 inches apart. On the three standard trusses only, attach gussets on both sides. \n

\nOn the two gable-end trusses, secure gussets to one side only. On the other side, cut and attach siding. It should overhang the bottom edge of the ceiling rafter by 1-3/4 inches.", credit: "Reed Young", sourceid: null, sourcename: "", sourceurl: null, sourcelogo: "", thumbsrc: "/cm/popularmechanics/images/io/simple-shed-08-0213-smn.jpg", src: "/cm/popularmechanics/images/Ak/simple-shed-08-0213-lgn.jpg", srcwidth: 600, srcheight: 450 }, { id: "slide9", url: "build-your-own-simple-shed-from-scratch-9", slidetype: "image", title: "Install Walls", description: "Parts and Tools: assembled walls, spare 2 x 4, 3-1/2-inch decking screws; drill-driver\n

\nWith help from an assistant, begin by tipping the back gable-end wall into place. The sides of the wall should be 3-1/2 inches from the corners of the floor deck to allow for the side walls. To make sure you leave enough room, nail 2 x 4 scrap to the floor at each corner. \n

\nOnce the wall is vertical, check it for plumb and temporarily brace it to the floor with a scrap 2 x 4. Attach it to the floor by driving 3-1/2-inch decking screws through the bottom plate and into the band joist.\n

\nNext, install a side wall. You may need three people to lift the wall into place. After you have tipped it vertical, slide it toward the gable end until it mates with the flange. Attach it to the gable-end wall and to the floor using 3-1/2-inch decking screws. Repeat for the other side wall. Finally, install the front gable-end wall with the door. \n

\nSecure the overhanging siding to the band joists with 8d nails.", credit: "Reed Young", sourceid: null, sourcename: "", sourceurl: null, sourcelogo: "", thumbsrc: "/cm/popularmechanics/images/y9/simple-shed-09-0213-smn.jpg", src: "/cm/popularmechanics/images/y6/simple-shed-09-0213-lgn.jpg", srcwidth: 450, srcheight: 600 }, { id: "slide10", url: "build-your-own-simple-shed-from-scratch-10", slidetype: "image", title: "Install Trusses", description: "Parts and Tools: assembled trusses, 3-1/2-inch decking screws; drill-driver\n

\nBefore starting, it may help to set all the trusses in the roof cavity so they are resting on the top plates with their ridges pointing to the floor. Then, starting at one gable end, tip the truss into place and attach it by driving 3-1/2-inch screws up through the top plate and into the ceiling joist. The siding on the gable-end trusses should overlap the siding on the wall. \n

\nInstall the remaining trusses evenly spaced along the wall, again driving screws up through the top plate and into the joists. If you live in a region where there is a risk of high winds, consider installing hurricane clips here.", credit: "Reed Young", sourceid: null, sourcename: "", sourceurl: null, sourcelogo: "", thumbsrc: "/cm/popularmechanics/images/Vs/simple-shed-10-0213-smn.jpg", src: "/cm/popularmechanics/images/C6/simple-shed-10-0213-lgn.jpg", srcwidth: 450, srcheight: 600 }, { id: "slide11", url: "build-your-own-simple-shed-from-scratch-11", slidetype: "image", title: "Install Rake and Fascia Boards", description: "Parts and Tools: 1 x 4 cedar; rafter square; circular saw, hammer\n

\nTo make the fascia boards, cut two 1 x 4 cedar boards at 94-1/2-inches, and nail them directly to the ends of the rafters with 8d nails. \n

\nPrepare the rake boards in much the same way you did the rafters. Mark the plumb cut in the middle of the board with a rafter square, make the cut, and then trim the pieces to length. The long sides of the rake boards should measure 48 inches. Attach them to the gable ends using 2-1/2-inch nails.", credit: "Reed Young", sourceid: null, sourcename: "", sourceurl: null, sourcelogo: "", thumbsrc: "/cm/popularmechanics/images/Jz/simple-shed-11-0213-smn.jpg", src: "/cm/popularmechanics/images/F3/simple-shed-11-0213-lgn.jpg", srcwidth: 600, srcheight: 450 }, { id: "slide12", url: "build-your-own-simple-shed-from-scratch-12", slidetype: "image", title: "Install Roof Deck", description: "Parts and Tools: spare 2 x 4, 1/2-inch plywood sheathing, 8d hot-dipped galvanized nails; 4-foot level, hammer\n

\nTo ensure that all the trusses are in the right place before attaching the roof deck, tack a 2 x 4 to each rafter along one side of the roof, making sure each truss is plumb as you work your way along. \n

\nWith help from an assistant, attach a full sheet of 1/2-inch sheathing plywood to each side of the roof using 8d nails placed every 8 inches.", credit: "Reed Young", sourceid: null, sourcename: "", sourceurl: null, sourcelogo: "", thumbsrc: "/cm/popularmechanics/images/nF/simple-shed-12-0213-smn.jpg", src: "/cm/popularmechanics/images/85/simple-shed-12-0213-lgn.jpg", srcwidth: 450, srcheight: 600 }, { id: "slide13", url: "build-your-own-simple-shed-from-scratch-13", slidetype: "image", title: "Shingle Roof", description: "Parts and Tools: drip edge, roofing felt, shingle starter strip, laminated asphalt shingles and matching ridge shingles, 1-1/4-inch roofing nails; tin snips, hammer, stapler, utility knife\n

\nUsing 1-1/4-inch roofing nails, fasten drip edge along the lower edge of the roof, wrapping it over the fascia board. Trim the drip edge with tin snips.\n

\nStaple roofing felt to the deck. Begin with a layer along each lower edge, making sure it overlaps the drip edge. Then install a single piece centered over the ridge so that it overlaps the other pieces by a few inches. Finally, install drip edge along the sloping edges at each gable end. Miter the drip edges where they meet at the ridge.\n

\nBefore attaching any shingles, lay an asphalt starter strip along the roof\'s lower edges and fasten it every 12 inches with 1-1/4-inch roofing nails. This ensures that the roof deck isn\'t exposed by the gaps in the first shingle course. \n

\nLay the first shingle course directly over the starter strip, working left to right. Be sure to check the manufacturer\'s directions for nailing requirements. Each shingle in our shed was fastened with six 1-1/4-inch roofing nails. Trim the last shingle to fit by flipping it over and cutting through the smooth side with a utility knife. \n

\nFor the second course, cut 6 inches off the first shingle to avoid overlapping vertical seams. For the third course, cut 12 inches off the first shingle. For the fourth course, cut 18 inches off the first shingle. Use the offcut from the second course to start the fifth course, and continue this staggering method until you reach the ridge.\n

\nCheck periodically that you are laying each shingle course straight by measuring from the lower edge of the roof to the bottom edge of the shingle. This measurement should be consistent along the entire length of the course.\n

\nWhen you reach the ridge, you may have to trim the final shingle course horizontally to fit. To complete the roof, install ridge shingles according to the manufacturer\'s directions.", credit: "Reed Young", sourceid: null, sourcename: "", sourceurl: null, sourcelogo: "", thumbsrc: "/cm/popularmechanics/images/hp/simple-shed-13-0213-smn.jpg", src: "/cm/popularmechanics/images/DC/simple-shed-13-0213-lgn.jpg", srcwidth: 450, srcheight: 600 }, { id: "slide14", url: "build-your-own-simple-shed-from-scratch-14", slidetype: "image", title: "Install Trim", description: "Parts and Tools: exterior-grade caulk, 1 x 4 cedar, 8d nails; hammer\n

\nCaulk the gap between the window and the siding, then fasten 1 x 4 cedar trim around the window frame. The horizontal pieces should extend about 1/8 inch past the vertical pieces.\n

\nCaulk each of the shed\'s corners where the siding meets, and then wrap each seam with 1 x 4 cedar.", credit: "Reed Young", sourceid: null, sourcename: "", sourceurl: null, sourcelogo: "", thumbsrc: "/cm/popularmechanics/images/P5/simple-shed-14-0213-smn.jpg", src: "/cm/popularmechanics/images/mm/simple-shed-14-0213-lgn.jpg", srcwidth: 450, srcheight: 600 }, { id: "slide15", url: "build-your-own-simple-shed-from-scratch-15", slidetype: "image", title: "Build and Install Door", description: "Parts and Tools: 2 x 4 lumber, T1-11 siding, strap hinges; hammer, shims, drill-driver\n

\nFrame the door with 2 x 4 lumber. The outside dimensions should be 1 inch smaller than the rough opening in both width and height. \n

\nTake the siding offcut produced when cutting out the door opening, and trim it so it\'s 1/2 inch smaller than the rough opening in both width and height. Attach it to the frame so it\'s flush with the 2 x 4s along the hinge side and top edge; it will extend past the strike side.\n

\nFasten the door to the shed using three heavy-duty strap hinges. Place shims around the door to ensure a consistent gap.", credit: "Reed Young", sourceid: null, sourcename: "", sourceurl: null, sourcelogo: "", thumbsrc: "/cm/popularmechanics/images/5X/simple-shed-15-0213-smn.jpg", src: "/cm/popularmechanics/images/je/simple-shed-15-0213-lgn.jpg", srcwidth: 600, srcheight: 450 } ] };

Set Concrete Deck Blocks

Parts and Tools: four concrete deck blocks; hand tamper, torpedo level Prepare the surface by tamping down the area where the concrete deck blocks will go. You can make your own hand tamper by nailing a 12-inch piece of 2 x 6 to the end of 4 x 4 post.

Position deck blocks to create a layout measuring roughly 6 x 8 feet. Ensure that the blocks are seated level on the ground. Verify that the layout is square by checking that the diagonals measure 10 feet.

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